Kakadu is a huge national park, World Heritage listed, with RAMSAR wetlands and all of the Alligator River catchment and it's flow to the sea in its boundaries. It also has a uranium mine and some 280 bird species!
While there are a huge range of environments here, spanning floodplains, rocky escarpment, rainforest and wetland, most of what you drive through is dry, sparse floodplain, often burnt, scraggly and repetitive.
When you go to the shops, the aboriginal people you pass are speaking their language. English is very much a second language. I think this is great.
The accommodation is limited and dear as poison. The eating options are even more limited and equally expensive.
Because it's so big, the tourists, mostly European, are spread thinly. We have polite chats and compare notes with them when we meet on the track. When we drive toward them on single lane roads, I hold my breath hoping they will remember which side to move to.
So, it is hot, dusty, long distances, expensive. Why would anyone go?
Because there are places here of rare, perhaps spiritual beauty.
Because the wonder of indigenous culture and it's connection with country are intact here.
Because the vast natural world is waiting to be listened to here, to give you perspective, quiet, peace.
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